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Into Thin Air: Our 9-Day Everest Base Camp Odyssey

  • solarastills
  • Jul 10
  • 22 min read

Updated: Jul 29

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Embarking on the Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek is an experience that stays with you forever. It’s a journey of breathtaking landscapes, rich Sherpa culture, and immense physical challenge. But when paired with cozy and luxurious tea houses, a helicopter ride, and expert guidance from Sherpa Adventures, the adventure becomes even more unforgettable.


Our group of nine friends set out with excitement, ready to take on the legendary trail. With the help of three experienced Sherpas, a personal porter for my belongings, and pack animals carrying our luggage, we embraced both adventure and comfort. Along the way, we encountered majestic yaks, crossed high-altitude suspension bridges, and stood in the presence of Everest itself. If you are dreaming of hiking to Everest Base Camp one day, then look no further. This blog details all that you need to know about the hike, including gear to pack, how to train and the entire 9 day itinerary.

A trek of immense proportions!
A trek of immense proportions!

Best Time to Go

The ideal seasons for trekking Everest Base Camp are:

  • Spring (March-May) – Blooming rhododendrons, clear skies, and moderate temperatures.

  • Autumn (September-November) – Crisp air, stunning views, and stable weather.

Avoid monsoon season (June-August) due to heavy rain and landslides and winter (December-February) unless prepared for extreme cold.

We hiked during springtime, from April 23 - May 1, and we couldnt have asked for better weather! We encountered light snow on Day 5 during the last 30 minutes hike to Dingboche, and snow flurries on Day 8, as we approached Everest Base Camp. Both were very manageable, and we were packed and prepared for all kinds of weather.


>> Got a question about this hike that you need answered quickly? DM me on Instagram @SolaraStills and I’ll be happy to help! I only accept DMs from followers, so hit the follow button before sending.

Training Required

Since the hike is at high altitude, preparation should focus on cardio endurance, leg strength, and acclimatization:

  • Regular hikes of increasing difficulty

  • Altitude training if possible

  • Strength workouts for legs and core

  • Stair climbing workouts

Being mentally prepared for long trekking days and changing weather conditions is just as important. Living in San Francisco Bay Area, we have ample trails of various difficulty to train.

The last 4 months prior to embarking on our EBC adventure, our group followed a plan and hiked together during the weekends and trained individually during weekdays. If you want to look at the training plan we followed, please contact me.

Difficulty of the Hike

Even with excellent preparation, trekkers experience fatigue due to lower oxygen levels. Taking it slow, staying hydrated,  and acclimatizing properly are key to successfully completing the trek. Even with regular, vigorous training, we found the trek strenuous.

Here are the main reasons why EBC trek is challenging :

  • Long trekking days (8-9 hours)

  • High altitude (up to 17,598ft / 5,364m)

  • Rocky terrain and steep ascents

  • Dusty trails


What To Pack

Packing for a 9-day trek to Everest Base Camp in April-May requires careful planning to ensure you stay warm, comfortable, and prepared for the changing conditions. Essential items include the following :

  • Diamox (high altitude medication) - this is the single most important item to pack while embarking on a high altitude trek. You can get this medication via a prescription from your PCP or over-the-counter in India and Nepal. We took 250mg twice a day, starting on Day 0 when we landed in Kathmandu and all the way until Day 9 when we returned to Kathmandu. Some of us had obvious side effects from Diamox, including nausea and tingling of the extremities, most of which disappeared by Day 3 or Day 4.

  • layered clothing

    • moisture-wicking base layers

    • insulating mid-layers

    • a waterproof outer shell to handle fluctuating temperatures.

  • Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots are a must for the rugged terrain, along with thermal socks and liners to protect against dust and cold.

  • A good-quality sleeping bag rated for sub-zero temperatures is crucial, as teahouse lodges can get chilly at night and bedding used may not be washed after each guest leaves.

  • Accessories like gloves, a warm hat, a buff or scarf, and UV-protection sunglasses help combat both the cold and intense sunlight.

  • Pack lightweight trekking pants and shirts, as well as a down jacket for colder sections of the journey.

  • A well-fitted backpack (30-50L) with rain cover ensures you can carry your daily essentials

  • A duffel bag is optional, as most trekking companies offer one as part of the package.

  • Medication for cold, cough, diarrhea, and body aches. A very valuable tip that we received from past travelers and which was extremely useful to all of us was to buy a bottle of Sancho herbal oil at any general store in Nepal, prior to embarking on the trek. Sancho cures many ailments, including mild cough and cold and body aches. If you want the exact gear list we used to pack, please contact me.

With our 15lb duffel bags provided by Sherpa Adventure Travels
With our 15lb duffel bags provided by Sherpa Adventure Travels
  • Other essentials include a refillable water bottle or hydration system, water purification tablets, trekking poles for stability, high-SPF sunscreen and lip balm, personal hygiene items, basic medications, and snacks for energy boosts.

    With this well-prepared packing list, you’ll be set to tackle the breathtaking journey to EBC with confidence


Our Trekking Company, Sherpa Adventure Travels

Our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek with Sherpa Adventure Travels was nothing short of extraordinary. From the moment we arrived in Kathmandu to our final steps back, every detail was meticulously planned to ensure a seamless and luxurious trekking experience. Opting for their 9-day luxury trekking package, we enjoyed the convenience of helicopter transfers, soaring above the Himalayas from Kathmandu to Lukla and later from Gorakshep back to Kathmandu. Doing so we were able to bypass the unpredictability of standard flights or spending another 3 painful days hiking back to Lukla.

Sherpa Adventure Travels provided four expert guides who perfectly balanced the group—one leading the fast hikers, one keeping pace with the middle, and one ensuring the slower trekkers felt supported and encouraged.

Our Sherpas - our gods, our guides
Our Sherpas - our gods, our guides

The fourth sherpa was my personal guide and porter, Dhan, who carried both mine and my husband’s belongings. His quiet yet unwavering presence, always a step behind, always watchful - was a true comfort, especially when navigating the unpredictable movements of fast-moving yaks and mules.

With my personal porter, Dhun
With my personal porter, Dhun

Sherpa Adventure Travels provided expert guidance, incredible hospitality, and a trek that felt both adventurous and indulgent. We couldn’t have asked for a better team to lead us on this unforgettable journey to Everest Base Camp. If you’re considering trekking to EBC, I highly recommend them for a stress-free, well-organized, and truly luxurious experience.


Accommodations and Food

The accommodations along the way far exceeded typical trekking standards. Until Lobuche, we were treated to heated beds and en suite bathrooms, adding an extra layer of comfort to our high-altitude journey.

Beyond logistics, the small details made the experience unforgettable. We were given bottled water at every lunch and dinner stop, and the flexibility to order anything from the menu kept meals enjoyable and satisfying. Each day, a tea break before lunch became a cherished ritual, where we indulged in delicious ginger and lemon tea, warming us against the crisp mountain air.

Refreshing and warm ginger tea
Refreshing and warm ginger tea

Although our tour package allowed us to order anything and everything out of the menu, from Indian cuisine to pastas, pizzas and burgers, we played it safe and stuck to Nepal's 24-hr power meal, daal - baath, which also came with a side of potato curry and salad. We had carried with us pickles and snacks from home to spice up our meals when we felt the need. We stayed away from dairy, but on the couple of occasions we tried yak cheese, we were pleasantly surprised that we actually liked it! For breakfast, we were served porridge, toast and eggs, along with coffee and tea.

Yak cheese was surprisingly delicious!
Yak cheese was surprisingly delicious!

>> Got a question about this hike that you need answered quickly? DM me on Instagram @SolaraStills and I’ll be happy to help! I only accept DMs from followers, so hit the follow button before sending.


Day 0: Kathmandu

Landing in Kathmandu was the perfect way to begin our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek, a city overflowing with energy, culture, and spirituality. After the journey, checking into Dusit Princess Kathmandu felt like a breath of fresh air. The clean, comfortable rooms were exactly what we needed to relax before the trek ahead, and the excellent breakfast fueled us for a day of exploration.

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Top: Our hotel in Kathmandu, Dusit Princess; Bottom : Enjoying a south Indian breakfast buffet at the hotel
Top: Our hotel in Kathmandu, Dusit Princess; Bottom : Enjoying a south Indian breakfast buffet at the hotel

Our first stop was the Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest and most sacred Buddhist stupas in Nepal. The sight of its towering dome, draped in colorful prayer flags, was mesmerizing. We took in the peaceful atmosphere, watching monks chant and spin prayer wheels, setting the tone for the adventure ahead.

Boudhnath Stupa
Boudhnath Stupa

Later, we met with our trekking operator, Sonamji from Sherpa Adventures, who walked us through the itinerary, safety measures, and final preparations—making the reality of our upcoming trek feel even more exciting.

As the evening approached, we visited Pashupatinath Temple, a deeply spiritual place where centuries of tradition and devotion come to life. We took a quiet moment to pray for a successful and uneventful trek. The temple’s energy was grounding, reminding us of the journey we were about to embark on - one of resilience, adventure, and awe-inspiring landscapes.

Our group offering prayers at Pashupatinath Temple
Our group offering prayers at Pashupatinath Temple

With hearts full and spirits high, we returned to our hotel, ready to rest before setting off for the mountains.


Day 1: Helicopter from Kathmandu to Lukla (9443 ft) & Trek to Phakding (8758ft)

Our Everest Base Camp (EBC) journey began with an unforgettable start. Unlike most trekkers who navigate the unpredictable flight to Lukla, we opted for a helicopter ride, soaring above the Himalayas with breathtaking aerial views of snow-capped peaks and deep valleys. The sheer scale of the mountains, the winding rivers cutting through rugged terrain, and the glacial landscapes unfolding beneath us created a surreal moment.

All set to Chopper off to Lukla from Kathmandu

Touching down at the famed Lukla airstrip, one of the world’s most thrilling landing spots, the excitement was palpable - we were finally here, ready to take our first steps on the trail.

Lukla air strip - the most dangerous in the world!
Lukla air strip - the most dangerous in the world!

After a delicious cup of masala chai at Sherpa Adventure Travels owned Himalaya Lodge, and a few group pictures, we were ready to start our trek.

Ready to hit the trail after some delicious masala tea

From Lukla, we eased into a relatively moderate hike, mostly downhill, to Phakding, following the Dudh Koshi River, whose rushing waters provided a serene backdrop. The trail, was what we soon learnt, was "Nepali flat" - a little up, a little down - basically a series of rolling hills. We passed by many vendors along the way selling hiking essentials and souvenirs.

Hiking along the Dudh Koshi river
Hiking along the Dudh Koshi river

The trail wound through small villages, lush forests, and suspension bridges adorned with fluttering prayer flags. Along the way, spinning prayer wheels and passing local yak caravans added to the cultural richness of the experience.

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1. Waiting for to pass; 2. Our first taste of daal-bath on the hike; 3&4 Scenes along the trail
1. Waiting for to pass; 2. Our first taste of daal-bath on the hike; 3&4 Scenes along the trail

Arriving in Phakding, we settled into a cozy tea house, Hotel Sherpa Shangri-la, which offered plush, heated beds, en suite bathrooms, free wifi, warm hospitality, and flavorful food, all of which were a comforting retreat after our first day of hiking. As night fell, over a delicious continental dinner and with a steaming cup of ginger tea, we reflected on the day’s journey, eager for the adventures ahead. All of us were in great spirits with no effect of 8500 feet elevation.

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Cozy Hotel Shangri-La


Day 2: Phakding (8758ft) to Namche Bazaar (11,294ft)

Our breakfast routine would also be pretty much the same everyday - Our sherpas would greet us with hot water and ginger tea, followed by the breakfast orders we would have placed the previous night. Breakfast would usually be eggs (omelette or scrambled or hard boiled), porridge, toast and coffee. We had also brought with us masala chai bags, pickles and masala oats packets to break the monotony. This was sufficient to fuel us until lunch.

Day two of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek brought the first real challenge as we made our way from Phakding to Namche Bazaar. We were warned by friends who had hiked EBC, that this would be one of the toughest hiking days, as we would encounter those steep steps that would take us to Namche Bazar. The morning hike was breathtaking, as we followed the Dudh Koshi River, crossing our first of many suspension bridges draped in fluttering prayer flags. As we hiked, we encountered trekkers from all over the world, locals carrying supplies, and herds of yaks moving steadily alongside us. Some of the folks in our group had brought school supplies which we handed to the excited kids when we encountered them in the villages.

Cute kids we encountered in the villages we passed
Cute kids we encountered in the villages we passed

With each step, the scenery changed dramatically, transitioning from lush forests to rugged alpine terrain, revealing snow-capped peaks in the distance. The scenery at our first tea stop was anything less than spectacular. These views just kept surpassing each other in the following days.

Tea-time with a spectacular view
Tea-time with a spectacular view

We soon arrived at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, where we stopped for our customary group photo below the colorful archway. Sagarmatha National Park is a World Heritage Site and the entryway to Mount Everest. A trekking permit is required to enter the National Park and our sherpas had organized the permits for us ahead of time. As we crossed the archway, the crunch of gravel beneath our boots and the flutter of prayer flags overhead marked our passage into this sacred Himalayan sanctuary.

We now officially enter Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park
We now officially enter Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park

After stopping for lunch at yet another scenic location, the trek intensified.

View of a suspension bridge at our lunch stop
View of a suspension bridge at our lunch stop

In total, there are 5 suspension bridges between Phakding and Namche, each more scenic than the previous. We spent ample time on these bridges absorbing the magnificent view of Dodhkosi river below us, and indulging in numerous photo ops. Each of the bridges is adorned with sacred scarves called "Khada" which are believed to bring good luck. On the last day, when we said goodbye to our sherpas, they tied Khadas around all our necks - a sweet and unforgettable gesture.

After a treacherous climb over a landslide area, we finally reached the most famous suspension bridge of all. The famed Hillary Suspension Bridge, high above the roaring river below, marked the beginning of the steepest ascent into Namche Bazaar - an incline that tested both our endurance and determination. The bridge was perhaps the longest and the most scenic bridge we encountered throughout our trip.

L: Group picture below the Hillary suspension bridge; R: Raghu and I about to embark on the steep climb to Namche

As many had warned us, the stretch of the trail after the bridge was demanding, with switchbacks that seemed to go on forever, with the air thinning as we climbed. We were thankful for the long trains of yaks and horses, which forced us to stop and make way for them, which in turn allowed us to catch our breath. The steep climb to Namche consisted of uneven terrain and rocky steps. This is when our guides introduced us to the Nepali word, "Bistari", meaning slow and steady, similar to "pole, pole" which we heard often during our Kilimanjaro trek.

The Namche steps!
The Namche steps!

But the moment we crested the final hill and laid eyes on Namche, nestled like an amphitheater against the mountains, every struggle felt worth it. Namche Bazar is the capital of the Khumbu valley and is the last town to get any of the amenities of the civilized world. You will find hotels, restaurants, bakeries, bars and all kinds of shopping for the weary traveler, including "Walmart" and "Yakbucks".

Our first view of Namche Bazar
Our first view of Namche Bazar

Our stay at Camp De Base in Namche elevated the trekking experience as every room came with a view of the towering mountain range in front of us. The heated beds were a welcome comfort against the chilly mountain air, and the en suite bathrooms made high-altitude trekking feel incredibly civilized. Free Wi-Fi allowed us to share our journey with loved ones back home. As we settled in, sipping on hot ginger tea and recounting the days events, we were relieved that we had an acclimatation day ahead of us, when we could rest and catch up on our sleep.

Finally, checked into Hotel Camp De Base in Namche

Day 3: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

Day 3 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek was all about acclimatization, ensuring our bodies adjusted to the rising altitude by "hiking high and sleeping low". We woke up to the most striking view of Mount Thamserku from our hotel room window.

View of Mount Thamserku and the town of Namche Bazar from our room
View of Mount Thamserku and the town of Namche Bazar from our room

Since it was acclimatization day, we had a relaxed breakfast of eggs, bread and porridge. To kick off the day, we hiked up to the Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Heritage Center, an inspiring tribute to the legendary mountaineer who first conquered Everest. The hike introduced us to the steep steps of Namche Bazar, as we climbed the narrow uphill trail towards the Heritage Center.

Tensing Norgay's ice axe is pointing at Mount Everest
Tensing Norgay's ice axe is pointing at Mount Everest

The views from here were nothing short of spectacular, with the Himalayan range and Ama Dablam forming a dramatic backdrop.

To make the moment even more special, my friends and I dressed in colorful sarees, capturing the essence of tradition against the towering peaks - an unforgettable photoshoot that blended culture with adventure.

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Saree photo-ops
Saree photo-ops

We also visited the Sherpa Museum, where we gained deeper insight into Sherpa life, traditions, and the legacy of Tenzing Norgay, adding a layer of appreciation for the guides who make these treks possible.

Once our hike was complete, we wandered through Namche Bazaar’s vibrant local markets, picking up souvenirs and enjoying the Sherpa town.

Scenes from the streets of Namche Bazar

The afternoon called for indulgence, starting with the most delicious pizza made of yak cheese at Sherpa Barista Bakery, an unexpected treat at such altitude, followed by a decadent dessert at the famous German Bakery, Hermann Helmers Backerie, a must-visit spot for trekkers. Since there is no concept of "refrigeration" in these remote locations, everything is cooked upon order. Which in turn meant that the wait times were long for food throughout our trek. This gave us plenty of opportunity to relax and unwind while we waited for our food to arrive.

Indulging on delicious pizza and pastries

Satisfied and slightly sleepy from our feast, we returned to our lodge at Camp De Base for a much-needed afternoon nap, letting the comforts of our heated beds rejuvenate us. As the evening rolled in, we gathered once more for an early dinner, enjoying the warmth of good company and hearty food, mentally preparing for the journey ahead.

The way all teahouses are built throughout our EBC trek is that there is large dining room which is the central hub of the teahouse. A centrally placed stove or fireplace keeps the dining room warm. The stove is fired either using cow dung in higher altitudes, or some wood. Hikers gather around the stove (which is only fired in the evening) and share stories while sipping hot tea or coffee. A couple of nights, our guides had to sleep in the dinning room as they didnt have any rooms available in the tea houses.


Day 4: Namche Bazaar (11,294 ft) to Deboche (12,251 ft)

Day 4 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek took us from Namche Bazaar to Deboche, a journey that rewarded us with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the Himalayas. The trek started with the same stairway climb to reach the outskirts of Namche Bazar, where the towering peaks of Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse began to dominate the skyline. The sight was mesmerizing, with each step bringing us closer to the heart of these legendary mountains.

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Scenes along the trail
Scenes along the trail

As we ascended, the terrain shifted between forests of rhododendron and pine, narrow ridges, and open landscapes, making for a dynamic and visually stunning journey. We soon reached a Buddhist stupa at the conner of the mountain trail. We stopped here for a much needed break, and of course, to take more photographs. From here, we also got a clear view of the Everest peak. The scene could not have been more perfect - colorful prayer flags flapping in the wind in the foreground, with Mt. Everest standing tall in the background.

A very photogenic Buddhist stupa at the corner of the trail.
A very photogenic Buddhist stupa at the corner of the trail.

We soon learnt that the buddhist prayer flags always come in five colors, with each color representing the five elements of nature: Blue for the sky, green for water, yellow for earth, white for air and red symbolizing fire. Balancing these five elements bring health and harmony in life, as per Buddhist medicine. These prayer flags we encountered at every turn, reminded us of the spiritual energy woven into the Himalayas.


After a stop for tea at one of the most breathtaking locales, overlooking Ama Dablam, we started our steep ascent to Tengboche.

Yet another scenic tea stop on the way to Tengboche

The final climb to Tengboche Monastery was steep but not as bad as the previous day, offering panoramic views that felt almost unreal.

Arriving at Tengboche Monastery, we were fortunate to witness monks performing their evening prayers, a deeply spiritual and peaceful experience. Sitting there, as we rested from the steep hike, surrounded by centuries-old traditions, we felt connected to the land, the culture, and the journey ahead. This monastery is over a 100 years old and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Tengboche monastery

After our visit to the monastery, we descended into Deboche, where we checked into Rivendell Lodge, a tea house that balanced rustic charm with modern comfort. The warmth of the lodge, the delicious food, and the cozy atmosphere were a welcome treat after a long day’s trek. With heated rooms and the quiet tranquility of the Himalayas surrounding us, we settled in, reflecting on the journey so far while preparing for the challenges ahead.

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Our cozy Rivendell Hotel, and welcome snacks and drinks

Day 5: Deboche (12,251 ft) to Dingboche (14,469ft)

Day 5 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek took us from Tengboche to Dingboche, marking a significant shift in the terrain and altitude.

Started my day with a breakfast of alu parathas and pickles!
Started my day with a breakfast of alu parathas and pickles!
Tengboche Monastery in the shadows of Ama Dablam
Tengboche Monastery in the shadows of Ama Dablam

The lush forests we had been trekking through gradually gave way to a vast, rugged alpine valley, where the landscape felt raw and exposed, surrounded by towering peaks. The crisp mountain air carried the distant echoes of yak bells, and as we moved forward, more yaks crossed our path, their thick fur well-suited for the rising altitude. Similar to the yaks, we began to don warm layers to fight the chill in the air.

Another day, another suspension bridge
Another day, another suspension bridge
Ama Dablam was our constant companion throughout the trek
Ama Dablam was our constant companion throughout the trek

The challenge of the day was not just the distance but the noticeable altitude change. As we climbed higher, every step demanded extra energy, and even short inclines felt tougher than before. Taking measured steps became part of our rhythm. By now, the effects of altitude were beginning to set in. Some of us slowed down to maintain steady breathing, but our guides kept us hydrated, motivated, and moving at a comfortable pace.

Done with lunch, but more miles to go!
Done with lunch, but more miles to go!

As the afternoon wore on, and just as we crossed an icy stream, the sky darkened ominously, and snowflakes began to drift down - a magical yet challenging turn in weather. The gradual snowfall added an extra chill to the air, making the final approach into Dingboche a test of endurance. Fortunately, we had packed the right gear for all kinds of weather and very soon we were dressed in our warmest, waterproof layers.

Farmhouses with stone compounds
Farmhouses with stone compounds
A yak lazily swims across the river
A yak lazily swims across the river
Like a kid in a candystore
Like a kid in a candystore
In a winter wonderland!
In a winter wonderland!

Thankfully, reaching Tashi Delek tea house felt like arriving at a warm haven. The heated common areas provided a welcome escape from the cold, and the excellent meals replenished our energy. As we huddled together, recounting the day’s trek over cups of hot ginger tea, the snowfall outside turned the Himalayan landscape into a serene, wintry scene. It was a day that reminded us of the sheer power and beauty of the mountains, and the resilience needed to push forward toward Everest Base Camp.

Day 6: Acclimatization in Dingboche (14,469 ft)

Day 6 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek was dedicated to acclimatization in Dingboche, allowing us to adjust to the thinning air while taking in the beauty of the high Himalayas. The day started with a short local hike, an essential step in helping our bodies adapt to the increasing altitude. As we walked, we spotted yaks grazing freely, their thick coats and sturdy build perfectly suited for the extreme conditions. Watching them roam against the backdrop of the Himalayas was both serene and mesmerizing, a reminder of life’s resilience in this rugged terrain.

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Scenes along the acclimatization hike
Scenes along the acclimatization hike

While some of us ventured outside for the hike, others chose to rest and recharge in our inviting lodge, taking a much-needed break before the demanding days ahead.

Outside, snow continued to fall, dusting the village in a layer of quiet beauty. There was something magical about being nestled inside, sipping on steaming cups of tea while watching the snowfall beyond the windows.

Snow covered Dingboche
Snow covered Dingboche

The gentle hum of conversation, the warmth of good company, and the anticipation of the adventure ahead made this acclimatization day a much needed pause.


Day 7: Dingboche(14,469ft) to Lobuche(16,207ft)

Day 7 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek took us from Dingboche to Lobuche, a stretch that tested both our endurance and mental resilience. The trek led us through glacial valleys, where the terrain became increasingly rugged, and the thinning air made every step more demanding.

A Buddhist stupa nestled against the protection of Ama Dablam
A Buddhist stupa nestled against the protection of Ama Dablam
Sharing the trail with pack animals
Sharing the trail with pack animals
We are speckles in front of these towering giants
We are speckles in front of these towering giants
The town of Pheriche in the distance - where we will swap choppers on our return journey
The town of Pheriche in the distance - where we will swap choppers on our return journey

The towering peaks surrounding us were breathtaking, each one adding to the grandeur of the journey. Some of the most prominent mountains visible during this stretch included:

  • Ama Dablam (22,349 ft / 6,812 m) - One of the most striking peaks in the region, its sharp, pyramid-like shape dominates the skyline. Often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas," Ama Dablam is a favorite among climbers and photographers alike.

  • Lhotse (27,940 ft / 8,516 m) - The fourth-highest mountain in the world, Lhotse stands tall beside Everest, its massive ridges and icy slopes creating a dramatic backdrop.

  • Taboche (21,463 ft / 6,495 m) - A rugged peak with steep faces, Taboche adds to the dramatic scenery along the trail.

  • Arakam Tse (21,073 ft / 6,423 m) - A lesser-known but equally stunning peak, visible as we trekked toward Lobuche.

  • Lobuche East (20,075 ft / 6,119 m) & Lobuche West (20,161 ft / 6,145 m) - These twin peaks rise above the village of Lobuche, marking our final destination for the day.

Enjoying the easy trail while it lasts!

The mild ascent took a turn for the worse after lunch as we headed towards Memorial Park, a memorial sites dedicated to fallen climbers, a solemn reminder of the mountain’s unforgiving nature. The never-ending ascent to the Memorial Park was one of the most grueling sections of the entire trek, pushing us to dig deep and keep moving forward.

Up, up we go!
Up, up we go!
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Happy to have reached the top of one of the hardest part of the trail on this trek. At Memorial park.

Arriving at New EBC Hotel in Lobuche, we were met with basic accommodations, a stark contrast to the comforts of previous nights. At this altitude, water freezes, meaning we had to adjust to using common bathrooms without working flushes - a humbling reminder of the harsh conditions in the high Himalayas. The walls of our rooms were made of plywood. We had to pay for wifi, which we decided to skip and go on a "digital detox" for the next two days. Despite the simplicity, we were grateful for the warm common areas and hearty meals, which provided much-needed energy for the big day ahead - our final push toward Everest Base Camp.

The village of Lobuche
The village of Lobuche

As we settled in for the night, we realized that we were one step closer to Everest, and the journey was about to reach its most thrilling moment.


Day 8: Lobuche (16,207 ft) to Everest Base Camp (17,598 ft) & Overnight at Gorakshep(16,942 ft)

Day 8 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek was the most anticipated yet physically grueling day of the entire journey. It was a true test of endurance, resilience, and mental strength. No one had warned us just how tough this stretch would be, and we soon realized that reaching Everest Base Camp was not just about distance, but about persevering through the thin air and rugged terrain.

We set off from Lobuche, trekking through rock-strewn glacial valleys, where each step felt heavier due to the altitude and exhaustion. The landscape was stark and dramatic - gray, barren, and carved by the forces of nature, with towering ice formations in the distance. As we progressed, we could see the impact of climate and altitude on the terrain, with loose stones, shifting paths, and the Khumbu Glacier’s icy ridges framing our route.

Are we there yet??

By midday, we arrived at Everest Inn in Gorakshep, where we paused for a much-needed lunch break. The moment we dropped our packs, the relief was immediate, allowing us to recharge for the final push to Base Camp.

View of Gorekshep from the trail
View of Gorekshep from the trail

The last stretch was relentless, with the altitude making every step feel twice as hard. The rocky terrain was uneven, requiring careful footing, and the cold, thin air made breathing a conscious effort. The snow flurries that kept us company all the way only made the situation more difficult.

Bundled up against the snow flurries
Bundled up against the snow flurries
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Khumbu glacier
Khumbu glacier
The yellow tents at the bottom of the picture is Everest Base Camp, with the Everest peak at the top. So close, yet so far!
The yellow tents at the bottom of the picture is Everest Base Camp, with the Everest peak at the top. So close, yet so far!

Finally, after hours of pushing forward for a 2 mile stretch, we reached Everest Base Camp. The moment was surreal - we had finally made it!! However, the base camp itself was underwhelming - the endpoint was nothing more than an ugly rock covered in graffiti, a stark contrast to the grandeur we had imagined. In the distance, we could see the colorful tents of Everest climbers, marking Camp 0 of 5 before their summit attempt. However, Mount Everest was nowhere to be seen, as it was hidden by the mountain ranges closer to base camp.

Yay! We've arrived!!
Yay! We've arrived!!
Sporting our team tshirt - From Bay to Base - We made it!!
Sporting our team tshirt - From Bay to Base - We made it!!
The graffiti ridden iconic rock of EBC with the Everest climbers tents in the background
The graffiti ridden iconic rock of EBC with the Everest climbers tents in the background
Raghu had an emotional moment as he dedicated this entire trek to his recently departed parents
Raghu had an emotional moment as he dedicated this entire trek to his recently departed parents

Despite the disappointment in the physical marker, the achievement of reaching Base Camp was undeniable. We celebrated with photos, laughter, and quiet moments of awe, reflecting on the journey that had brought us here. As the cold set in, we made our way back to Gorakshep, where exhaustion finally caught up with us. The tea house was basic, but after the day’s effort, we were grateful for the warm common areas and hearty meals. As we settled in for the night, the realization hit - we had made it to Everest Base Camp, a milestone that would stay with us forever.


Day 9: Gorakshep (16,942 ft) to Kathmandu via Pheriche and Lukla

Day 9 of our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek marked the culmination of an unforgettable journey. After successfully reaching Base Camp the previous evening, we woke up at Everest Inn in Gorakshep, feeling a mix of exhaustion, pride, and achievement. The prospect of a chopper ride back to civilization felt like the perfect way to wrap up this adventure, sparing us the grueling trek back while offering stunning aerial views of the Himalayan terrain we had traversed over the past eight days.

In groups of twos and fours, we boarded helicopters, first flying to Pheriche, then Lukla, and finally returning to Kathmandu.

Happy to be flying back to civilization
Happy to be flying back to civilization

As we soared through the sky, the Dudh Koshi River snaked below us, tracing the very path we had hiked days before. The flight, lasting a mere 20 minutes, contrasted sharply with the eight-day trek, turning the long and arduous journey into a breathtaking visual montage. Watching the rugged trails, suspension bridges, villages, and ridges pass by was like replaying highlights of our trek in fast motion. With every twist of the river, we spotted familiar landscapes—the steep climb to Namche, the peaceful monastery of Tengboche, the vast expanse of Dingboche, and the icy glacial moraines leading to Lobuche. We couldn’t help but feel immensely grateful for the decision not to trek back—our bodies needed the rest, and the aerial perspective gave us a unique appreciation of the journey.

View of the trail we just completed from the chopper
View of the trail we just completed from the chopper
Birds eye view of the villages we hiked through just a few days ago
Birds eye view of the villages we hiked through just a few days ago

Back in Kathmandu, the comforts of civilization welcomed us like old friends. The hot showers, flushable toilets, and clean rooms at Dusit Princess were absolute luxuries, reminding us how much we had adapted to high-altitude simplicity. Some of us indulged in a much-needed massage, allowing sore muscles to finally relax after days of demanding trekking.

Raghu and I indulged in a much deserved couples massage at Dusit Princess
Raghu and I indulged in a much deserved couples massage at Dusit Princess

As the evening approached, our trek operator, Sonamji, treated us to a delicious farewell dinner at his restaurant, Mul Chowk, a meal that felt both celebratory and sentimental. We reflected on the experiences shared, the incredible friendships forged, and the memories that would last a lifetime.

Sonamji treated us to a farewell dinner at his restaurant, Mul Chowk, in Kathmandu
Sonamji treated us to a farewell dinner at his restaurant, Mul Chowk, in Kathmandu
One final group photo before we said our goodbyes
One final group photo before we said our goodbyes

As we said our goodbyes, the realization set in - our Everest adventure had come to an end, but its impact would stay with us forever. This journey was more than just a trek; it was a test of resilience, camaraderie, and the pursuit of something greater than ourselves. We departed Kathmandu with full hearts, ready to carry the stories of Everest wherever life took us next.


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Final Reflections

This 9-day trek to Everest Base Camp was one of the greatest adventures of my life. Hiking alongside close friends, staying at luxurious tea houses, encountering yaks, standing at Base Camp, and making the brilliant decision to fly back via helicopter made this journey unforgettable.

For anyone planning this trek, investing in comfort, using experienced guides like Sherpa Adventures, and considering a helicopter return can transform the experience into the perfect balance of adventure and ease.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need additional information about this trek.


>> Got a question about this hike that you need answered quickly? DM me on Instagram @SolaraStills and I’ll be happy to help! I only accept DMs from followers, so hit the follow button before sending.


1 Comment

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Guest
Jul 10
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Well written and annotated with pictures and data. Will be helpful to future EBC hikers in their planning and preparation.

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